Category: Hiking

  • The End

    The End

    Day 79: Perranporth to Sandy Acres

    ? 35km

    ?1131m

    After a fabulous sleep in the lovely quiet campsite and slightly later alarm, we had a slowish start, the drizzle arriving before we left so we packed up in the rain.

    Darker nights, torch out

    Becky and George kindly dropped us back at Perranporth Beach and we set off in the rain, up a steady climb above the beach. It was still pretty warm so we immediately started to sweat on the inside. The drizzle did then start to ease and the sun tried to shine. This was the game of the day, judging how long to leave waterproofs on for, as it had to be long enough that they dried a bit, not too long that we roasted, but in enough time to actually enjoy them being off before the rain started up again.

    We cruised around to St Agnes Head and dipped down to Chapel Porth just before the rain came again. We enjoyed a Croque Monsieur and coffee from the café there talking with a lady called Pixie who was doing the SWCP. We then headed up the path reminiscing on some family fun we had had 18 months before at that beach. We walked over to Porthtowen, a shorter distance than we remembered, and passed the Unicorn pub. We headed back up to skirt the disused air field, back down to Portreath and then a final big climb where we realised we had only covered half the distance for the day and it was already 15:00. Luckily this final section was quite flat and we joined the Carvannel Downs and the rainy day hikers.

    I was tired by this point and the view of the headland jutting out that I knew we had to yet cover was getting me down, but on the positive side, the sun was out for good so we de-layered for the final time and pushed on through the crowds that had finally left their cars in the car park.

    The final hurdle was the sand dunes of Gwithian Beach, following stone markers with dubious arrows. We met an elderly gentlemen also having the same issue as us, he had some very old kit on and a Blue Peter badge on his jungle hat.

    Stone markers in the dunes

    We finally made it to Sandy Acres, pitched up, showered and ate. The kindness of strangers who hear our story is one of the best things that we have experienced this trip as generally British people unlike other cultures around the world keep themselves to themselves. The evening was completed with a gentlemen meeting Tom at the water tap, listening to our story and then coming over with his son to give us Bananas and offer anything he could including Sudocream as he had spotted my tape and was very concerned about the state of my feet. It’s just 2 more sleeps until the end and we confirmed arrangements to be collected at Lands End by Tom’s brother.

    Day 80: Sandy Acres to Porthmeor

    ? 29km

    ?981m

    We were waved out of Sandy Acres by our new biggest fan and headed back out on the dunes. I found it quite frustrating both navigating and following the very wiggly path. We popped out by the estuary near Hayle and picked our way through a new housing/flat development on the quay, reaching Asda where we did our final stock up on food and used the toilet. From here we headed out of town on the road and then along the railway line that took us back out on the opposite side of the estuary towards Carbis Bay and St Ives.

    We made our way through quite a few houses and then got to see the fabulous beach and famous hotel at Carbis Bay. From here we followed the crowds on the tarmac path to St Ives, where it started to rain briefly, and we dashed to the toilets before meeting Jim and Enys coming towards us. Jim picked up some pasties whilst we found a bench. Gully and Jess joined us and we spent a bit of time together getting big hugs and smiles from everyone before heading out of town, picking up water as we went. 

    We then joined a notorious bit of coast path that is slow and rocky underfoot. The wind was high and the waves dramatic, which made for great scenery. A few hours in and the drugs had worn off, my right foot was already quite sore and things were getting tough.

    Gusty

    We met a local couple with a dog who asked lots of technical questions about kit etc so were obviously keen hikers themselves and we later met a Russian man ‘everyone calls me Jeff’ who was doing Newquay to Lands End and then maybe onto Penzance if he had time.

    Finally some drone-worthy conditions on the SWCP

    We had scouted out our last camp spot on trail months before when we lived in Cornwall at the beginning of the year, and luckily no one had found it before us. It was a beautiful evening, and we even got half a sunset. The cloud did come in at the last minute but we sat watching it go down anyway, seal spotting and appreciating how lucky were are.

    Last Night

    Day 81: Porthmeor to Lands End

    ? 24km

    ?964m

    The night was perfect; quiet, dry and the wind was relatively low. About 04:30 the weather turned and by 05:30 it was heaving it down and the wind was strong again. It felt like it would be a shower, so we packed up our stuff in the hope it would all be over by the time we were done. No such luck, we put a time on it and when the time was up and the rain had not eased, there was no option but to just go for it.

    We got drenched within seconds, the wind was so strong and as we pulled the outer off the frame the poles bent in a very worrying direction but by some miracle didn’t buckle.

    We climbed out the cove and continued along the tricky rocky path which was now flooded with water and we were being blown sideways from the right. The brambles we had been fighting through the last couple of weeks had damaged my waterproof and within half and hour my right side was soaked through 2 layers to the skin.

    Grateful to leave the rain behind

    The trail had certainly decided to challenge us right until the end and on reflection it was probably one of the worst bits of weather we had encountered all trip. I was sulking big time as this had not been how I had imagined we would finish the hike and I was starting to panic about getting cold.

    We reached the National Trust at Levant Mine and Beam Engine and the toilets were not even open never mind the café, so we carried on. Soon after that the rain started to ease and I started to look up and appreciate the tin mine, it’s beautiful buildings and the wonderful chimneys.

    We marched along some saturated but easier paths to Cape Cornwall meeting the morning crowds and enjoyed a toilet break and our last coffee on trail in wonderful Charles and Diana wedding mugs. By this point the sun was trying to shine and I took my waterproof trousers off, by the time Sennen Beach came into view, we were down to one layer and sun cream was on!

    Last coffee on trail

    We walked along the beach, a small section of the water had been given red and yellow flags by the life guards for swimming and body boarding. We walked passed the café’s of Sennen Cove and up to Mayon Cliff’s coast guard look out before following the path towards Lands End.

    So close

    Ahead we could see a small crowd of people, the Cornish flags flying and realised it was for us. Friends and family had come to greet us and thankfully the sun was shining and they were all smiling. It was just the best thing to have familiar faces to hug and share the end of our journey with. We enjoyed photos, a pint of Rattler and an ice cream to celebrate.

    Welcome Party ???
    Lands End! ☺️

    Neither of us think that the reality of our achievement has sunk in yet, when you embark on an adventure where your every day is changed for such a long period of time the last day feels like any other. I think reflection on the highs and lows will bring to the surface the emotion that maybe we were expecting.

    But that’s one of the many things that we have learnt on this journey, live everyday without expectation and you are free to experience life for what it is, rather than for what you think it should be.

  • Say “No” to ferries and “Yes” to more friendly faces

    Say “No” to ferries and “Yes” to more friendly faces

    Day 76: Threwethett Farm Campsite (in between Boscastle and Tintagel) to Padstow (Dennis Cove campsite)

    ? 38.01 km

    ?1142m

    Today was due to be another big day to get to just outside Padstow.  We warmed up with a couple of smaller valleys and some cliff tops to take us past Tintagel and could already see Port Isaac in the distance, which was where we were headed before leaving the coast path for the rest of the day.

    Soon things got a bit bigger and steeper.  We passed through the little village of Trebarwith Strand and then followed the coastal path on a series of big ups and downs and some cliff top walking alongside fields.

    Bigger
    Steeper

    We reached Port Isaac and stopped for lunch on a bench just on the edge of town before venturing in and collecting an ice cream and a coffee on the way though.  We left the coastal path here to head inland to Wadebridge since the coast path takes the Rock to Padstow ferry and we are walking from JOG to LE so that’s a no no! ☺️

    The route used footpaths and roads, mostly decent and quiet but one stretch on the B3314 was pretty horrendous, probably the worst so far on the trip due to fast moving holiday traffic and no verges.  Once all that was over we arrived in Wadebridge, crossed the River Camel, and popped to Co-Op for supplies.

    To get to Padstow we joined the throngs of cyclists on the Camel Trail, which, like the Tarka Trail from a few days ago, tarmac.  The only upside to that was speed!  We motored along the 8km at 5km per hour so it wasn’t too long before we arrived at Dennis Cove campsite.  The guys running the show were amazing and brought us a couple of chairs to chill in.  Thats trail magic, in the form of camp chairs, two nights on the trot! 

    We ate and did a few bits of organising for the last few days, finding a cafe to aim for in the morning in Padstow.  Looking forward to a short one tomorrow and some beach time at Mawgan Porth! ?

    Day 77: Padstow (Dennis Cove campsite) to Mawgan Porth (Higher Pendeen Camping) 

    ? 22.31 km

    ?412m

    With an easier day ahead we had a lazy 0630 alarm and were on the move about 0745, arriving at Ben’s Crib Box Cafe just after it opened at 0800.  Katie had a BLT, I had a breakfast burrito.  We both had a coffee to kick start our progress through Padstow and onwards along the end to end route, leaving the SWCP to skip Stepper Point headland, rejoining at Trevone.

    The estuary near Padstow

    Soon our second shortcut of the day. This time skipping the Trevose headland.  It was a lovely calm morning and the early starters were making the most of the beautiful sandy beaches we passed as we rejoined the SWCP at Harlyn for the rest of the day.

    Crystal clear coves never get boring

    Katie seems to have strained the front of her right ankle/shin, and downhills in particular are an issue, so we both enjoyed a much easier day in distance and ascent.  In addition the ascents and descents were mostly a pretty gentle gradient which helped.

    After passing through Porthcothan, we had lunch on a bench with a great view of blue seas.  It still seemed relatively quiet on the beaches, at least compared to our expectations.  Today was definitely the busiest on the SWCP, not surprising given we are much closer to populated areas and beaches are sandy and more accessible.

    One of the best lunch bench’s so far!

    The route continued to wibble wobble around the coastline and we overlooked cliffs into the crystal clear waters.  When we headed over Trenance Point, Mawgan Porth beach came into view, and it was rammed!  The route took us right across the beach so we stopped and I had a swim whilst Katie cooled her feet in the shallows.  We continued across the beach picking our way through the masses and found a Rattler/Tea in a pub by the beach.

    On the way to the campsite I grabbed an ice cream and we wandered up the road to find our spot, pitched up and caught up on some blogging so that our fans would be happy.

    Day 78: Mawgan Porth (Higher Pendeen Camping) to Perranporth

    ? 30.87 km

    ?697m

    It was a lovely morning and we set off heading towards the wonderful sight of a sprawling Newquay, knowing that the end of today would have us staying with friends who happened to be at a campsite just off the coastal path near St Agnes.  We enjoyed some nice cliff top walking, spotted some dolphins, and had super views across Watergate Bay with some early morning surfers definitely choosing the best time of the day before it got busy.

    Watergate Bay

    We arrived at the outskirts of Newquay and trudged through the concrete jungle, in search of the caffeine which the excellent Pavilion Bakery provided.  Great coffee, cinnamon bun and cardamon bun.  We checked our intended distance for the day and realised we hadn’t checked some of the distances after the recent days re-jigs, so we were due to do 40km, a bit more than expected.  So we re-jigged again and instead of continuing past Perranporth to St Agnes, Pete and the gang would meet us there and drive us back to the campsite, then drop us back tomorrow morning.

    That sorted, we zoomed round Sainsbury’s and escaped the clutches of Newquay.  The day then consisted of sandy beach after sandy beach.  And being sandy, they attracted people, lots of people.  It was easily the busiest day on trail so far on the SWCP in terms of crossing paths with others.

    Think I’ll skip the beach thanks…

    We stopped for lunch overlooking Porth Joke and had a lovely sourdough baguette from Pavillion Bakery with some prosciutto from Sainsbury’s. Ooo-la-la!

    Deluxe trail lunch

    We eventually popped over Ligger Point and saw the huge expanse of Perran Beach, almost 4km long.  This far end of it was pretty much deserted and looked amazing.  At the far end we could see the hordes had descended on the beach by Perranporth.  We dropped down to the beach and walked along it before the tide required us to climb up and over Cottys Point.

    The nice quiet end of Perran Beach

    On Perranporth, we then had to try and find Pete and the gang amongst the masses. Like an impossible game of Where’s Wally.  We had just given up after about 10 minutes of looking (Pete had shared his location but to no avail) and sat down to text them our location, when Becky and Freddie appeared before us.  We spent the afternoon catching up, and eating ice cream, then headed back to the campsite.

    (Note: We later heard that Cornwall Live had reported that there were 12000 people on Perranporth today! ?‍?)

    Where’s Wally?

    We setup, showered and did a final clothes wash.  Becky nipped to St Agnes to get fish and chips, Pete had the beers on ice and we had a lovely evening with the gang.

  • Long days & sticking to the plan

    Long days & sticking to the plan

    Day 73: Yelland to Mouth Mill

    ? 35km

    ?1309m

    As predicted the storm came in during the night, the rain was heavy and the wind strong and gusting. We pre-empted it would happen and used our trekking pole trick but in the middle of the night the one on Tom’s side came down and the poles of the tent felt like they were under serious strain. 

    Somehow the tent survived and we woke with our 05:30 alarm surrounded by a grave yard of other tents and people taking shelter in their cars. One family had already started packing away and were driving out by the time we had packed up our things.

    It had stopped raining but was still very windy so we packed up quickly, when I lifted one side on the inner up to fold it over as usual, Tom panicked and dove on top of the tent as he thought it was going to blow away. It was a bit of an unnecessary reaction (editor: we agree to disagree on that) and made us giggle for the rest of the day. The plus side of the wind was that it had dried the tent and so was much better to pack away.

    We joined the Tarka trail, still cycle path to Bideford, and headed for Costa, but the cafe on the opposite corner looked nice, we paused for a look and a local persuaded us it was the one to go for so we had a well recommended coffee which was lovely.

    Moody Tarka Trail

    It’s worth noting at this point that Tom had been doing some reading ahead in the guide books for the End to End and SWCP.  There is a difference in that one is all about walking the length of the country and another is about walking a defined trail.  We joined the SWCP at Minehead with the intention of walking the costal path as far as Lands End.  The problem with that is that the SWCP uses a ferry to get from Rock to Padstow, but that would invalidate our claim to have walked the length of the country.  So the End to End route leaves the SWCP before Rock and walks inland to Wadebridge and then back out along the Camel Trail to Padstow.  So we could follow the coastal path to Rock and then walk inland to Wadebridge, however this would add distance to what we had planned for, requiring a revision to our current schedule to arrive at Lands End on Saturday 7th August, and there are no footpaths from Rock to Wadebridge so it would all be road walking.  So we decided to stick to plan A – walk the length of the country.  As this meant we were going to skip part of the Coastal Path, Tom could stop being so particular about walking every inch of it and we could follow the End to End guide route when it deviated from the SWCP.

    This is important to note now because from Bideford we avoided 8km of walking on the SWCP around the headland and towns of Appledore  and Westword Ho! by taking a cross country route to meet the SWCP just south of Westward Ho!.  The day turned out to be longer in distance and time than we thought so it was a good move!

    When we re-joined the coastal path it was extremely windy and gusty and the next 10km were hard work. Narrow paths, being blown off balance, lots of steep up and down sometimes with steps, along with a fair amount of bush whacking. However it didn’t really rain and the scenery was rather dramatic and beautiful.

    Getting the shot
    The shot

    When we got to the end of the stretch we met a couple of National Trust rangers clearing the fern at the start of the trail.

    We then joined a stretch through a forest which was much more clear and under cover so sheltered from the wind, we hit Buck’s Mills which had more people than expected and then the up through more forest and field to meet an old road winding to Clovelly. Clovelly was lovely from what we saw, a chocolate box village nestled in a cove, with a steep access road and no cars, so we made a note that we must go back to explore further.

    We had a drink tea & Coke, a wee and water top up at The New Inn and then headed off to find our wild camp spot at Mouth Mill, passing the Angel Wings shelter on our way.

    Angel Wings Shelter

    It was our first spot by the sea and a bit more like how we imagined wild camping on the coast path.

    Mouth Mill Camp Spot

    Day 74: Mouth Mill to Bude

    ? 40km

    ?1796m

    We had some human visitors at 02:00 in our quiet idylic camp spot, we have no idea where they came from or why they turned up in the middle of the night but they put up 2 tents on the other side of the mouth and stayed up chatting for the rest of the night. It was a funny moment when we first heard them as we were not quite sure what to think or do, but we were soon reassured and tried to get back to sleep, I don’t think I got much.

    Today was the “big day” in the guide book and it didn’t disappoint. I would say the first 80% was enjoyable. There were steep ups and down, big fields, great weather, incredible rock formations, a few seals, and on the most part few other people since this section was quite remote with the exception of one small car park at Welcombe Mouth.

    At Marsland Mouth we entered Cornwall, our final county on the trip!  As the beaches near Bude came into view we started to see more people, first at Duckpool, then Sandymouth. The ups and downs got a little overwhelming by the end and so luckily an ice cream at Coombe saved the day and mentally reset us for the last few kilometres into Bude.

    Kernow!

    I had been really disappointed not to get a coffee earlier in the day as we had arrived at the Heartland Hotel before they started serving, so the ice cream made up for this. It’s a different challenge now that we are passing through National Trust Cafés and towns most days, you get your hopes up and look forward to a treat but as we start early most days they are very rarely open, sometimes I wish we were back in Scotland where it would not even be an option to miss out on.

    Nearing the end of a big day

    When we got to Bude we went to Sainsbury’s to stock up and then found a bench seat outside a pub that partners with the Pizza place next door. So we enjoyed a great pizza and a pint.

    As the sun went down, the temperature dropped quite a bit and so we walked not too far to our campsite. As we arrived we were treated to some open mic style music from the village hall next door, which carried on throughout the evening . The site was basic but we were so tired we just zonked out.

    Day 75: Bude to Trewethett Farm

    ? 30km

    ?1497m

    We set alarm for 06:00 as we had had a long day the previous day. Within minutes of us stirring it started to rain, lightly first and then a heavy shower. Our hearts sank as it had not rained all night we packed up stuff inside and luckily it did stop raining by the time it was time to pack tent away but it was of course wet.

    We were a bit hobbily and slow and didn’t get going until 07:30, Tom had a niggle in his right knee and the ligament twinge in my right foot had come back as well.

    The first few km to Widemouth were relatively easy along wide grassy paths and I had high hopes for a coffee. But I should have known better as it was still early and a Sunday. We passed several closed cafés and coffee huts. The first half of the day involved lots of up and down with dramatic scenery. We were both sulking a bit and tired and so it was a little tough. Our feet were wet from the long grasses, and my leggings were wet which had previously been giving me a nappy rash type rash on my legs so I was grumpy.

    Crackington Haven saved the day at lunchtime, our first beach lunch break with sunshine, ice cream and wonderful coffee. It was a great little place and we enjoyed people watching. We left in a better mood and even with quite a bit to go, and a shower of rain, the second half of the day was much more enjoyable.

    We arrived in Boscastle, which was busy but beautiful, another place we noted as one to come back to, ice creamed up and pushed on the last few kilometres to the campsite.

    Boscastle

    It was not cheap for what we normally pay but the showers were ace, we did some laundry and there was a pizza van on site for the evening. We couldn’t resist, despite it being our second pizza in a row. We relaxed on a picnic bench in clean clothes with pizza and the F1 highlights.

    The sunset was incredible and our tent was perfectly positioned. A couple over the way from us had seen us walk in and kindly lent us some chairs so we could sit and watch the sunset in comfort.

  • Can you see the sea yet?

    Can you see the sea yet?

    Day 67: Cheddar to Bridgewater

    ? 34km

    ?213m

    We were expecting it to rain all day, so packed everything up in full waterproofs which worked a treat because it then stayed nice and dry.

    The campsite had a camping hut with fridge, so we treated ourselves to a different breakfast of fruit and yoghurt which was lovely.

    The days walking started off with a straight forward path along the river, we then joined lots of quiet dead straight roads which ran along the ditches and field boundaries, first dug out around 1500 years ago by the monks of Glastonbury to drain the salt marsh land that frequently flooded. We had lunch by one of the pumping stations, perching on a ledge.

    Long tarmac roads

    The second half of the day was spent fustratingly bush whacking through rarely trodden paths, we were scratched and stung all over. We finished the day by crossing the M5 for the final time to navigate the outskirts of Bridgwater which was not what I was expecting.

    Our accomodation for the night was also pretty basic with some right characters around. We stocked up in Sainsburies and Tom introduced me to Taco Bell, which was average. The highlight of the evening was access to a TV where we got to catch up on day 1 of the Olympics.

    Taco Bell

    Day 68: Bridgewater to Washford Inn

    ? 37km

    ?774m

    It was a difficult night, foreign party goers meant a distruptive sleep, I guess that’s what you get for £30.
    We got going about 07:00, passing through the centre of Bridgwater town which was marginally nicer than the outskirts we had seen the day before.
    We passed through some playing fields followed by farm fields which got socks and shoes soaked due to the overnight rain.

    We then had some unexpected rain, so covered up in a corn field, before descending into a muddy farm where the farmer told us to go a better, clearer route. Here we met a very chatty man with a Terry Pratchett t-shirt on who knew the area well.

    When he finally let us carry on, Tom triple checked the route and realised we had gone wrong so had to back track towards the farmer and follow ‘Terry Pratchett’. He had stopped at the top of the hill and we had no choice to approach and admit our mistake.
    He then insisted walking with us to show us how to get to Lydeard Hill. We walked together for a while but he was so much faster with a light pack and lunch to get home for so he left us to it. We climbed the rest up to Wills Neck on our own, joining very light Sunday crowds enjoying the Quantock Hills, had lunch, and put the tent up to dry.

    The Quantocks

    We decended into the village of Bicknoller which was very sweet, we regrouped at the village shop before continuing towards Washford via the MacMillan way which was nice and nettle free, plus the sun started to shine. We got to the Washford Inn by 17:45 and were showered and ordering dinner by 18:15. Recently taken over the owners were keen to hear more about our story and we enjoyed a fun home from home experience.

    Tom’s Washford Ultimate Burger

    Day 69: Washford Inn to Slopey Wild Camp

    ? 35km

    ?803m

    We had decided to have our included breakfast which didn’t start until 0800, so we enjoyed a small lie in until about 06:30, got ready watching Tom Daly win Olympic Gold, did some extra stretching and drying off socks with the hair dryer.

    Tom had the small English breakfast and I had avocado on brown with tomatoes, it didn’t arrive quite as advertised but was really lovely all the same and such a treat to have something different.

    We were on the road by 09:00 and had planned a route to get to the English Coast Path however this route had been diverted via Washford anyway so it was easy navigation to the sea. 

    It was then a straight forward path along the coast to Minehead, where we stocked up at Morrisons and got an ice-cream.

    This was now the start of the South West Coast Path which was very exciting and something we had been looking forward to for days. A tough steep climb to start with but, once high, a lovely wide grassy national trust path over the fern and heather moors to Portlock then over some boggy marsh and luckily only a short section of it’s stoney beach to Portlock Weir.

    Start of the SWCP

    We then ascended again into the forest passing the toll gate and the church, the lovely forest felt quite tropical at times. It was however getting late and due to rain the forest was not ideal for wild camping as there had been plenty of rock fall and tree damage, so we climbed back on ourselves above the tree line.

    The Beautiful Toll Gate

    We settled on what turned out to be a very slopey pitch next to the path, next to the gate of a sheep field. The farmer came to move the sheep but didn’t say anything.

    I had done something to the top of my ankle on my right foot so got a compression bandage on and took some ibuprofen, just hope all is ok in morning. It rained heavily most of the night with a small narrow stream running through the centre of the tent thanks to our angular pitch

  • Making hay whilst the sun shines

    Making hay whilst the sun shines

    Day 61: Baskerville to The Rising Sun

    ? 31km

    ?791m

    I didn’t sleep well as it was hot, damp, my left shoulder was playing up and my feet were feeling particularly sore. We woke up earlier than normal so we could pad my feet out with Compeed.

    After packing up a very wet tent from from the dew, we walked down the main road back to Hay, it being a Sunday the Co-op was not open until 10:00 so we popped into the Spa for a few supplies, despite it’s limited options, and then started the climb up towards Hay Bluff. On the way up we saw an ice cream van go past so did a bit of an alternative route via the car park so we could pick up a Calipo on the way.

    The ridge was well marked, covered with fern and heather and had spectacular views of Wales to one side and England the other. We made decent progress with fabulous views in the hot sun. We passed wild horses, got the drone out and enjoyed the occasional breeze.

    Welsh Trig Point

    We descended down into Pandy to The Rising Sun pub, camping in the field behind the pub. We enjoyed a shower and a cold drink but the pub was not doing its usual food as it was having a new kitchen fitted so they let us get a local Chinese delivered and eat it in the pub. It was lovely food, I had veggie egg fried rice and we shared a chilli beef.

    Drone Fun

    Day 62: The Rising Sun to Monmouth

    ? 27km

    ?542m

    There was a bit of loud Welsh drama in the campsite so had to put ear phones in to sleep, again not the best night with the heat.

    05:30 alarm, feet taped and soggy tent was put away. I struggled psychologically today, it was a shortish day but the heat was high and I kept looking at the tracker for the first half of the day. Some days you are just not in the mood for hiking. The highlight of the morning was the short visit to the ruins of White Castle but my feet were sore by lunchtime.

    White Castle

    We stopped in an empty meadow field in the shade and had a nice lunch squeezing the melted chocolate from my cornflake Ritter bar onto scones.

    Chocolate Melting Fast

    The second half of the day was much better and we arrived into Monmouth in good time, the camp site was right in town and although we had low expectations it was a very sweet place with many static caravans and couple of campers and us. It was quiet, clean and very convenient.

    We went to boots for supplies; bite cream, KT tape and alcohol gel. Then to M&S, the first on route and it was day 62. We picked up some old favourites and sat on the available picnic benches on the high street to nibble our luxury snacks. We then sat at a café for a cider but they closed on us mid drink so we had to take our drinks back to our picnic bench.

    We chose a local Italian place for dinner, it had air con, fabulous pizza and fizzy water which was lush on the hot day. The only bad thing was I left my water bottle there and when Tom went back to get it I think they had thrown it away.

    Back at the tent we watched the highlights of the weekend’s F1 at the campsite, it was quiet and I was zonked, so slept well.

    Day 63: Monmouth to Chepstow

    ? 31km

    ?875m

    Today was a really nice day through the fields, forest and along the river. We climbed up to the top of Klymin and enjoyed great views back across Monmouth, before descending through fields and then ascending back up through the woods. It was another warm day so were grateful for much more woodland coverage than yesterday throughout the day, it definitely takes a few degrees off.

    Top Views

    At Bigsweir, the route left the ridges above the Wye and followed the river for a few km as far as Brockweir.  It was a hot section of walking through fields but the river was a bit on the muddy side and didn’t really tempt us in.

    From Brockweir we returned to higher ground and on the climb up towards Caldwell Woods we stopped for lunch, putting the tent up to dry out as we would be in a bed for the next 3 days and didn’t want it smelling too bad. We also met Callum, a young lad who had started the Offa’s Dyke that day, he was pristine with all his new gear on, hope to follow his progress.

    The last few km into Chepstow was a little frustrating, winding back on ourselves, made more interesting by helping a guy who had managed to get himself on the wrong side of a barbed wire fence.

    We had a bunk room in a hostel in Chepstow which was lovely but so so warm. We picked up some snacks from our second M&S in 2 days and had a pie and chips at the pub around the corner. Back to England over the Severn Bridge first thing.

    End of Offa’s Dyke Path
  • Sweat, sun & stings

    Sweat, sun & stings

    Day 51 to 54: Warwick

    ? 0km

    ?0m

    We spent 4 days getting vaccinated, visiting family, watching the football on a big screen and swapping out gear for replacements along with a lot of planning, eating vegetables and sleeping.

    Day 55: Uttoxeter to The Trent & Mersey Canal nr Cannock Chase

    ? 25km

    ?234m

    We got dropped back at Uttoxeter after already having a few teething problems, Tom had to rearrange his bag having pulled it apart to wash, ensuring it was all put back together correctly. We started hiking about 11:30, it was muggy and the sky was looking threatening.

    That new shoe & sock feeling

    The guide book describes this section of the trail as one of the worst so we were determined to keep the day positive, especially as we were newly rested and ready to roll. I don’t think it was as bad as described but can understand why, we made our way through many fields and over stiles avoiding cows, enjoying the wheat and barley fields. We stopped in the beautiful village of Abbots Bromley just as the kids were finishing school, it was an adorable town with a very cute green and Tom picked up some water from the local shop as we were wild camping that night.

    Barley

    The day continued with very much the same terrain but it still didn’t rain! We passed over the railway and some accompanying train spotters and joined the Trent and Mersey canal path which was lovely, there were lots canal boats moored up, many of them in fabulous condition.

    We had about 3km to go before we intended to start looking for a camp spot in Cannock Chase but spotted the perfect spot by the canal away from the path. We sat on the bench it had and reminded ourselves about what distances we had over the next 2 days and decided to call it a day and take the spot.

    We boiled water for dinner and as we filled our noodle pots the rain came down so we quickly put then tent up.

    Day 56: The Trent & Mersey Canal nr Cannock Chase to The Meadow Field, Kiddemore Green

    ? 32km

    ?293m

    We woke at 05:30 snoozed until 06:00 and left the spot by 07:00 pretty much. I thought I had lost ground sheet bag in the hurry to put the tent up in the rain, but did find it a couple of days later. It decided to spit with rain just as we left so we put waterproof jackets on but by the time we reached Cannock Chase and were climbing a little through the woods they had to come off. Cannock Chase is a nice woodland area with big paths, lots of runners and tracks for cyclists. There was a cute river crossing with stepping stones that I enjoyed.

    The rest of the day through field boundaries felt like a battle of thorns and nettles, many of which were as high as us. We were following the Staffordshire way nearly all day but some of the paths were in very poor condition and were a nightmare to walk through and make any kind of progress. We were bashing and stomping and getting stung from nettles and spiked by thorns it was very slow going.

    Seeds in socks

    When we got to Penkridge we stopped in a cafe for a coffee each and shared a cherry scone with jam then cream.
    We stocked up on a lunch from the Co-op and headed on. Sadly the next few fields were just as badly kept and we even had to make a stop to empty shoes picking the seeds and grains from the material of our socks, they somehow get stuck right in the fibres and are a nightmare to remove, very much like a splinter. We ate our lunch by a small river and cherry tree crop which on reflection was probably not the best idea as we later discovered we had been bitten a lot by mosquitoes.

    Today is another wild camp day and we found a corner of a meadow field that was nice and hidden. Apart from someone racing around the land nearby on a small engine motor bike we were not disturbed, but we were feeling rather beaten up by the land and it’s insects.

    Just put the tent up around me

    Day 57: The Meadow Field, Kiddemore Green to Pool View Caravan Park

    ? 32km

    ?448m

    Didn’t sleep the best and was dreaming of the grand national when the alarm went at 05:30, we had a quick 10 mins snooze then got up to pack stuff and the very soggy (from dew not rain) tent. It was a perfect blue sky morning and the start of a great day.

    We walked down nicely clear marked tracks and field boundaries in the cool morning sun and bumped into Ali and her dog who was delighted with our story, told us that we had some fabulous scenery to come and even offered to call her husband and ask him to get the kettle on. We declined as her home was not quite on route but she was wonderfully kind.

    Our only concern of the morning was actually the lack of water, as it had been hot and we were drinking much more, and with wild camping we need at least a litre of water for dinners as well.
    We had spotted a fuel garage on the map but as always there is no guarantee these places are still open but we were in luck and even though we were at a camp site that evening filled up on 1.5 litres each.

    We joined the Monarch’s Way which continued on down country lanes and well cleared paths. We enjoyed admiring the crops, taking photos of derelict buildings and then smelling a wonderful couple of fields of roses.

    Blue sky & fields of roses

    Here we bumped into a gentlemen who was sort of interested in our trip but more interested in the Monarch’s Way section that we had walked that day, turns out he is the president of the way and therefore explained that the secateurs in his hand. They were not for roses but were for clearing the way on the trail. He told us he had walked 10miles with his strimmer the day before and as the day went on we were very grateful he had.

    The Monarch’s Way is a 625 mile long-distance footpath in England that approximates the escape route taken by King Charles II in 1651 after being defeated in the Battle of Worcester. It runs from Worcester via Bristol and Yeovil to Shoreham, West Sussex.

    Wild flower meadows

    We got to Ironbridge about 14:30, it was much smaller and more beautiful than I had imagined, from one side of the river looking across with the bridge was very cute and sweet. We crossed the bridge and scouted out the ice cream just to get us the half a km to the Co-op where we stocked up on a few supplies. We then stopped off at a beer garden for a beer for Tom and an orange and lemonade for me. Service was frustratingly slow but we got our drinks in the end. We then headed back out of Ironbridge to our site for the evening a caravan site. It was pretty poor, located under some huge power cables and not very clean. The fact that laundry facilities were only in the ladies, presumably on the assumption that they would be doing the washing, really summed it up.

    Ironbridge
  • Bridges, bog wood hunting & a huge fall

    Bridges, bog wood hunting & a huge fall

    Day 13: Kinlochewe to Allt a Chonais

    ? 22km

    ? 752m

    We woke a bit later than normal, treated ourselves to a campsite shower and headed next door to the garage and cafe for 08:30 for a breakfast bap and coffee in the sun. We headed out about 10:30 with the intention of making it to Craig about 17km away. We were both in shorts and t-shirt, sun creamed up with fresh smelling clothes on. Within minutes of turning off the road and onto the trail we were back in the bog, my shoes and socks were soaked through and there was mud all up my legs, I was fuming.

    We continued on through a narrow path of bracken and young forest and by the end of the 5km stretch my bare legs had been annihilated. We then hit a wide forestry road and the huge valley opened out in front of us, it was very impressive and beautiful. Although there was some up and down the path was wide and easier to navigate, with the sun blazing and a cool breeze it was perfect.

    We passed a man who was doing the Cape Wrath Trail and had come from where we were going. He said the river further on from Craig was perfect camping so we decided to head there. We took the donkey track down to Craig which got my feet wet all over again and was tough on the knees as it was steep. At the Craig railway crossing we met a lovely lady, probably in her late fifties, who had camped by the river the night before and done a Munro on her own during the day. She was very excited about our adventure and encouraged us to continue on to the river to camp. We joined an estate road and climbed for quite a bit, collecting and filtering water from a stream on the way.

    It was a beautiful evening, I rescued my feet by cleaning them off in the water and drying them out. Tom and I both agreed as we had made a bit more progress than planned we would push on a bit further the next day meaning the day after would not be quite as long as planned, making our four hot days in the wilderness a bit more manageable.

    Coulin Pass views
    Spot the tent

    Day 14:  Allt a Chonais to Maol-Bhuidhe Bothy

    ? 21km

    ? 692m

    We left camp early and made our way out the valley on the estate road that then cut off right on a marked trail to go up and over Allt Leathad an Tobair.
    We crossed a rope bridge, which went hilariously wrong for me and I ended up hanging with my backpack in the water and had to get my feet wet to recover. ?

    The point were I was the right way up

    As we were making our way up we saw a guy practically running down a Munro on our left. He was so lovely and excited for us when we told him of our trip. He had got up early to do the Munro that his wife had done the day before and was trying to beat her time. He pretty much emptied his bag and gave us a handful of goodies, our second dose of trail magic!
    We then came off the path and headed cross country, traversing along the side of Bealach Bhearnais staying quite high. We finally hit a better path, which turned into an estate road, and got a few fast KMs in. As we approached Bendronaig Lodge we stopped for lunch on a couple of nice rocks before heading Left on an estate road that took us around Loch Calavie. We could smell something dead and just around the water was a deer that didn’t make it. At the top end of the loch we ran out of path and headed up and over before we saw the beautiful white bothy which would be our home for the night.

    Antlers still attached, bothy in the distance

    The bothy was a family home to the shepherd of the estate in the 1800s, at least 3 families would have lived there over the time, with at least 10 children born in its remote location. The families would have lived off the land and spent some very cold winters in the house with 3 rooms. We headed down to it, finding the best place to cross the river and when we arrived had a quick look around, then started washing feet etc in the river.

    Soon after, Simon arrived, he was on annual leave from the Army doing the Cape Wrath Trail and was wonderful company. Simon and Tom went bog wood hunting so that they could get the fire going and they came back with some decent wood and some dried peat. We ate together with a successful fire going. Just as we were finishing up Paul arrived, another fantastic human being with lots of thru hike stories. They were both fabulous company to spend the evening with. Tom and I slept in the attic space of the bothy which was lovely.

    Paul (left), Simon (right)

    Day 15: Maol-Bhuidhe Bothy to Glen Affric Youth Hostel

    ? 28km

    ? 671m

    We packed up and left the boys early, making our way out the back of bothy along a fabulous path. The views forward and back were stunning and the valley sides were more green rather than brown. We met a few people out for Munro’s, and an Australian lady on a bike, and before we knew it we had smashed 10km. We then turned off the estate road up the gorge, with two giggling mountain bikers coming towards us hysterical that Strava had told them they could bike the route.  Biking the route would have been mad as it started steep and gradual but as we hiked more into the gorge it turned into huge steps up and more of a scramble so much so that we ditched the poles. It was different to any of the hiking we had done previously and certain muscles were struggling to get into gear, some of the steps were really high and with the pack it was quite an effort.  

    The Falls of Glomach, 113m high,were impressive, despite the dry days we have had recently, and we enjoyed lunch at the top.

    Falls from above

    We then followed the river that fed the falls on a pathless 5km through bits of bog and the shores of lochs, by the end it was quite tedious but probably the best section of pathless hiking we have done.

    We then hit a better path and headed down for the final 7km or so. We reached the youth hostel which we knew was closed, but had good camping, and bumped into a couple of young boys who were exploring. A few minutes later their dad came to find them and we shared our trail stories, they were out for a 3 day hike wild camping for the first time with Dad, and seemed to be loving it.

    We pitched the tent by the hostel building and washed feet in the stream next door, a quad bike then pitched up with a guy dropping some bags off then he headed straight back out to pick up 3 other lads.  They were living in the hostel whilst they replaced the deer fences that had come down in the winter avalanches. They work long days, getting through 200m of fencing a day between the 4 of them all done by hand and at serious height and gradient. They showered from boiling pots of water which was bailed from the stream just like us, they were fun to have around in the warm evening.

  • In the beginning

    In the beginning

    Day 1: John O’Groats to Keiss Castle

    ? 22km

    ? 363m

    We woke early at our favourite Inverness overnight stop off place, the Black Isle Brewery & Bunk Room. We showered for the final time in a while and walked the 3 minutes to the train station, sad there was no coffee to be had but excited to board the 07:00 train to Wick.

    The four and a half hour journey was spent ticking off the last of the life admin jobs, ensuring everything was charged and downloaded and I finished my book just in time.

    We took a taxi the last few miles up to Lands End and enjoyed lunch at the Northern Point Café. After the mandatory photos at the John O’Groats sign we joined the coastal path and started walking. 

    The weather was kind but the terrain underfoot was not and a few miles in I immediately regretted not wearing my SealSkinz waterproof socks as there were some pretty soggy boggy sections. The Geo’s (a long, narrow, steep-sided cleft formed by erosion in coastal cliffs) although frustrating to navigate at times as you have to come quite far inland to then go back out again, were gorgeous with beautiful flowers growing and thousands of birds nesting in them. 

    We very simply kept the sea on our left and made our way towards Keiss. We crossed a gorgeous white sandy beach with turquoise blue water, and Tom could not resist a cheeky dip. We met a couple of gentlemen on our walk along the rest of the beach but apart from that it was deserted. We continued on to Keiss and camped just after the ruined castle but before the little harbour. 

    The first night in the tent is never a good sleep despite the beautiful location but it was a nice feeling to be back on the trail.

    Day 2: Keiss Castle to Talbech Farm

    ? 33km

    ? 259m

    We rose early to get some easy miles in, the first part of the day’s trail was down a quiet country road, we then tackled the first marshy bog of the trip navigating through about 3km of marshy pond land; it’s safe to say the waterproof socks were on. We then continued through to Watten and were disappointed that the Brown Trout pub was not open until 5pm, but we stocked up on water and Tom’s worries that we were going to run out of food meant he also came out of The General Store with ham and rolls for lunch. We spoke to a lovely local gentleman who must have been in his 80s and had moved to the area 15 or so years ago.

    It just started to rain so we made a move out of the village but not before we used the PC. ? We followed the river out and were supposed to join a forestry area where we were hoping to camp but sadly a huge area of the forest had been felled and in its place were huge wind turbines so instead we walked for several boring kilometres through a wind farm.

    The rain was on and off and we started to worry about finding a suitable place to camp, but as always a spot always turns up so we pitched up in the rain next door to the sheep and the sound of the wind turbines not really in the distance.

    Day 3: Talbech Farm to Dalnawillian Lodge

    ? 26km

    ? 307m

    We left a bit later from camp today but still in the rain, we needed to cross the river but it had swollen to high levels so we made our way up the road to the farm house to take their bridge over the river. Here we met the farmer and his son who were very friendly and pointed out the bridge we were after, they were the first to guess we were going all the way to Lands End, thought we were mad, apologised for the wet May weather and wished us luck.

    We followed the river before joining a track and walked along the grassy and beautifully wide marked track through a quarry and before rejoining the river. We bumped into some anglers who were scouting out some good spots to fish, ate our lunch of peanut butter wraps in a small car park in-between rain showers and filled up on and filtered water from a nearby stream. The final section of the day was along an estate road, it was relatively easy going so we tried to get some distance in. We passed several very remote cottages to rent and spotted our first herd of deer. We settled to camp high above the river next to an abandoned lodge, it was quite eerie but a perfect sheltered camp spot. The lambs were not too impressed we had pinched their spot but we enjoyed a dry evening with a great view. The temperature plummeted in the night to 0⁰C so a few extra layers were put on early in the morning.

  • Where we are going

    Where we are going

    On Wednesday 19th May 2021 we will begin a thru hike that will take us from John O’Groats to Lands End, following a primarily trail based route mapped out by Andy Robinson, published by Cicerone. The route published actually takes you from bottom to top but our desire to avoid the worst of the Scottish midges was enough to tackle the extra challenge of following the route back to front.

    The 2,000 km (1242 miles) journey will take us remotely across the north of Scotland from John O’ Groats to Fort William where we will pick up the West Highland Way. From here we will make our way down the country linking national trails such as the Pennine Way and Offa’s Dyke Path before joining the South West Coastal Path at Barnstaple taking us all the way to Lands End.

    We expect the hike to take 2.5 to 3 months but with the luxury of time and the intention of camping and eating cheap most of the way, our current attitude is to be relatively unplanned and let the journey take as long as it needs to and we hope to bring you along with us.

  • Down but not out… What’s next?

    Down but not out… What’s next?

    Clutching at straws: stages of hope, denial and acceptance

    After the huge disappointment of deciding to get off the PCT and postpone our hike, there followed a difficult few days of hope and denial.

    1. Maybe this will all blow over in a couple of weeks. ?

    We can stay with my Dad and wait it out, then pick up where we left off, only a couple of weeks out of sync…

    2. Ok, maybe a couple of weeks isn’t gonna be enough, 1 month? ??

    How long until we out stay our welcome???? ?

    3A. In the meantime, risk mitigation hiking on the PCT? ?

    Could we still hike the PCT in a way that mitigates the reasons we aren’t hiking right now? We thought we could perhaps keep hiking and use a car with the following plan;

    1. We drive to location A
    2. One of us starts hiking to location B
    3. The other drives to location B
    4. The other then starts hiking to location A
    5. We cross in the middle, have a few mins break together and (importantly!) hand over the car keys
    6. On arrival at location B, one of us drives back to location A to collect the other
    7. Camp on trail near the car and repeat the next day

    Alongside this plan, we would do a few things to mitigate concerns about hiking during the C-19 pandemic;

    – Always have 2 weeks worth of food and water in the car as emergency backup (i.e. more than we needed) – the thinking here that if we got ill on trail we had enough food and water to self-isolate for two weeks in the tent/car without having to risk passing the virus on to others.
    – If one of us was ill enough to need hospital the other could drive to a hospital. Each day hiking would only be 10-15 miles due to time constraints with the added time needed to drive between locations. This meant that one of us was never more than 5-8 miles from the car.
    – We would avoid hiking in weather or locations where there was a greater risk of accident (most of the PCT is reasonably non-technical and easy to navigate in good weather).

    This idea seemed attractive. We could do two week stints before returning to my Dad’s to review the situation and resupply if possible for another stint. When things settle down we wouldn’t have lost so much time in terms of making progress on the trail. The only thing I was still uneasy about was the scenario where an accident occurs and we need assistance (see this article which highlights the problem here). If we mitigated this as noted above then it felt we were not putting ourselves at any greater risk than driving, walking, cycling in residential areas although rescue may be trickier.

    Katie did some research and in fact, whilst this seemed like a good idea, it would be difficult logistically and quite a lot of extra effort and cost. We decided it wouldn’t actually be a fun way of hiking the trail.

    4. In the meantime, Plan B: Hike local, keep fit, you never know when we might get back on trail…

    Hike relatively local to my Dad’s until we could get back on the trail. The day after we got off the PCT I insisted we walked down to and along the beach with our packs on. Must have looked like right goons. ? I didn’t care.

    5. Fighting acceptance ?

    Day by day the situation changed, as it had been for the past 2-3 weeks. Gradually, measures became stricter, some National Parks are completely or partially closed, campsites are closed etc. It doesn’t look like even option 2 has any hope of coming to fruition.

    6. The straw that broke the camels back ?

    When Boris announced the UK’s isolation lock down on Monday 23rd March the Foreign Office also issued a statement to say that all UK citizens abroad should return to the UK. I contacted our travel insurance to find out what this meant for us and was told what I had feared – if we stayed, and made no attempt to return home, we would not be covered for medical expenses in the US. We couldn’t risk this, it would wipe out all our savings, and more!

    We booked a flight home for Thursday, re-packed all the things we had unpacked from the trail after packing everything to get ready for the trail and made the most of our last couple of days with my Dad.

    Back on home soil ?

    We arrived home in the UK Friday lunchtime and are fortunate that we have plenty of family options where we can stay. For now, we are staying with Katie’s parents and hope that we didn’t pick up the virus on our trip home. Like many others, we are video calling friends and family more than we ever have before and making the most of it!

    We gave up our flat and our jobs in London so we are job hunting once again (if anyone has anything going, let us know!). Depending on how/where that turns out, we might find ourselves looking for a flat again.

    The plan, when we left London for a year out, was to not return to living in London. We expected to have plenty of time to discuss where to look for jobs whilst walking from Mexico to Canada; we could look for jobs in London and commute from outside, or we could look somewhere else entirely. Well we accelerated some thinking on that and both agreed we like the Bristol area as a location but want to live somewhere nice and green. But given the situation we are looking for jobs all over the UK and worrying about the location later! ?

    Once again, whilst we are devastated that we have had to postpone our year out adventures, not just the PCT but our travel plans for South America too, we are lucky to have family we can stay with whilst we find our feet again. Many others have been affected in bigger ways that really impact lives, this is just a minor readjustment in ours.

    The PCT isn’t going anywhere and we will be back at some point in the future… ?

    In the meantime, amongst CV polishing and job applications, some tlc for the tent and some fruit and veg planting! ?